Fence and Deck Staining

Stain is what stands between a wood fence and the East Texas sun. Unstained cedar goes gray in a season; unstained treated pine checks, splits and soaks up water until the boards start to cup. A good stain job, on clean dry wood, every few years, is the difference between a fence that lasts a decade and one that lasts two. We stain fences, decks, pergolas and other exterior wood around Lake Livingston, and we do it in the only order that works: wash, let it dry, then stain.

The order that makes stain last

1. Wash. Mildew, dirt and the old gray surface come off at low pressure with a wood cleaner. See pressure washing.
2. Dry. Two to three dry days, longer in humid weather. Stain on damp wood does not penetrate and peels.
3. Prep. Loose boards fastened, splinters knocked down, plants and concrete covered.
4. Stain. Sprayed and back-brushed so the finish works into the grain instead of sitting on top, with cut ends and the bottoms of pickets covered.
5. Cure. Kept dry until the finish sets.

Stain types

Transparent and semi-transparent stains show the grain and are the usual choice for cedar. They wear gradually and recoat without stripping. Semi-solid and solid stains hide more of the wood, cover weathered or treated pine evenly, and last longer between coats, at the cost of looking more like paint. Clear sealers protect against water without changing the color much and need recoating most often. We will show samples on the wood itself, because stain looks different on cedar, pine and weathered boards.

Painting

Paint has its place: trim, a white picket fence, a cross buck fence on a horse property. It hides more and comes in any color, but it sits on the surface and peels when water gets behind it, so prep and recoating matter more. We paint where it is the right finish and will say when stain would serve better. Stain or paint your fence or deck goes through the trade-offs.

New fences and decks

Cedar can be stained as soon as it is dry. Pressure-treated pine needs to dry for a season, until water soaks in rather than beading, or the stain will not take. When we build a new fence or deck we tell you when it will be ready and can come back to stain it.

What affects the price of a stain job

Square footage of wood, both sides on a fence that is finished on both faces, and the condition it starts in. A fence that was stained three years ago needs a wash and one coat; a gray fence that has never been finished needs a harder wash, drying time and sometimes two coats. Solid stains and paint cost more in material than transparent. Rails, lattice and spindles take longer than flat boards. We price it on site, and the wash is included in the number.

Choosing a color

Bring a sample board or ask for one; stain looks different on cedar, pine and weathered wood, and different again once it dries. On a lake lot, a natural or medium tone that reads as wood from the water is the common choice; dark solid stains hide an old fence best. If a fence and a deck are being done together we match them, or deliberately contrast them, before the first can is opened.

Frequently asked questions

How often should a fence or deck be stained here?

Every two to four years. Decks and south- or west-facing fence runs are at the short end; shaded runs and semi-solid stains at the long end. If water no longer beads on the wood, it is time.

Stain or paint?

Stain soaks into wood and wears away gradually, so it never peels and recoats without stripping. Paint sits on top, hides more, and peels when moisture gets behind it. For fences and decks we recommend stain; paint suits trim and some picket fences.

Can new wood be stained right away?

Cedar can be stained once it is dry, usually within a few weeks. Pressure-treated pine should dry for a season or until water soaks in rather than beading, or the stain will not penetrate.